What Is Gold-Filled Jewelry? Gold-Filled vs. Gold-Plated vs. Solid Gold

If you've ever shopped for gold jewelry and felt lost in the terms (gold-filled, gold-plated, vermeil, solid gold), you're not alone. They can look almost identical on day one. Where they differ is how much real gold is involved, and how they look a year from now.

My charm pieces are 18k gold-filled, and some of my other styles are gold-plated over stainless steel. Here's what each term means and why I use them.

Solid gold

Solid gold is gold all the way through, alloyed with other metals for strength (that's what the karat tells you: 14k is about 58% gold, 18k is 75%). It never wears away, which is why it's also the most expensive option by far.

Gold-plated

Gold-plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold applied to a base metal, usually by electroplating or vacuum plating. On a durable base like stainless steel it makes an affordable, hypoallergenic piece that looks great, but the layer is thinner than gold-filled and can wear over time, especially on pieces that touch your skin constantly, like rings and earrings.

Gold vermeil

Vermeil (pronounced "ver-may") is a thicker layer of gold over sterling silver. It's a step up from standard plating, though it can still wear with heavy use.

Gold-filled

Gold-filled jewelry has a much thicker layer of real karat gold that is mechanically bonded to a base metal, rather than a thin electroplated coat. In the US, a piece can only be called gold-filled if the gold makes up a meaningful share of the item's total weight, which is why gold-filled typically holds its color far longer than plated jewelry.

My charm necklaces and earrings are 18k gold-filled over a white brass base. That gives you the warm, rich color of 18k gold in charm jewelry that's made to be worn and layered every day, at a fraction of the cost of solid gold.

Quick comparison

• Solid gold: gold throughout; lasts forever; highest price.
• Gold-filled: thick bonded layer of real gold; made for everyday wear; mid-range price.
• Vermeil: thicker plating over silver; good with gentle wear.
• Gold-plated: thin layer; most affordable; can fade with frequent wear.

How to care for gold jewelry

• Take it off before swimming. Salt water and chlorine are hard on any gold finish.
• Put it on last: perfume, lotion and hairspray first, then your jewelry.
• Wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing and store pieces separately so charms don't scratch each other.

Shop gold-filled charm jewelry

The new Talismans are 18k gold-filled and hand-assembled in Miami. Start with the Saltwater Spell Charm Necklace or the Medusa's Alchemy Charm Necklace, or save 15% when you shop the sets.